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Friday, April 8, 2016

A - Z Andhra Recipes ~ G for Gongura - Mamidikaya Pappu

My initial ideas about 'G' dishes revolved around garelu (husked black gram fritters and not the medu vada though some call it garelu as well), gongura (sorrel leaves) and godhum appalu (wheat flour - jaggery based traditional sweet). I had to rule out garelu in mid way since I had already three deep fried fritters in my finalized list of recipes. I had prepared both gongura pappu and appalu for my 'G' recipe. In fact, appalu was my choice until this morning but gongura dish won finally for the regional authenticity. Andhra appalu are done a little differently than the neighboring state versions but still I thought of going with gongura. Gongura is one of the most cherished leafy greens in Andhra and there was no way I would have a 'A - Z' list of Andhra dishes without including it. 

My recipe today comprises the two culinary aspects of Andhra - the 'pappu' preparation and the addition of green mango to leafy green dals. A pappu is a lentil / toor dal based preparation from Andhra, which is usually on a thicker side, compared to other south Indian dal preparations. Moong dal may replace lentils, sometimes. Any spice powders or sweeteners are not used in the preparation of pappu. A particular vegetable or leafy greens are added to lentils while making a pappu and the dish takes the name of that particular vegetable used in the preparation. Mamidikaaya pappu is the one using mamidikaaya or green mango, Palakoora pappu is the one using paalakoora or spinach and so on. The usage of green chillies / chili powder, tamarind, salt and a tempering that includes asafoetida and curry leaves balance the flavors in the dish.

Green mango is not an usual addition for gongura pappu preparation but is commonly added to other leafy green based dal preparations in the summer months. I added it since both gongura and mango available to me locally are not closer to the Indian versions in the flavor department and they are barely sour. I had to even add tamarind. This dish is like rolling two flavorful dishes in one - the popular regional dishes of gongura pappu and the green mango pappu. This is a sans onion - garlic preparation as I am used to but the green mango can be replaced with onion and above is the link for that recipe. Good variety gongura leaves do not need any souring agent and so go cautiously with the usage of green mango and / or tamarind in the dish.

Dal - A Hindi word that represents all dry and cooked versions of beans.
List of 'G' culinary terms in Telugu.

Fruits / Vegetables:
Gajanimma pandu - Sweet lime 
Gangi regi pandu - Jujebe fruit
Gadda kooralu - Root Vegetables
Genasu gadda - Sweet potato
Gongura - Sorrel leaves
Goruchikkudu kaaya - Cluster beans
Gummadi kaya - Ash gourd 

Ingredients:
Gadda perugu - Thick yogurt
Gasagasalu - Poppy seeds 
Godhumalu - Wheat kernels
Godhuma nooka - Broken wheat
Godhuma pindi - Wheat flour
Godhuma rava - Fine cracked wheat

Dishes:
Garelu & Gatti vadalu - Black gram fritters 
Gavvalu - Sweet dish
Godhuma appalu - Sweet dish
Godhuma kudumulu - Sweet dish 
Godhumannam - Cooked broken wheat
Godhuma rava upma - Cracked wheat upma
Gutti vankaya koora - Stuffed eggplant dish
Guntha ponganalu - Breakfast / Snack
Gongura pulusukoora - Sour and spicy, sauteed sorrel leaves
(Dals, curries and chutney made with above vegetables also fall under 'G' dishes.) 
 
Ingredients needed:
1 cup toordal / lentils / kandipappu
2 to 2.5 cups chopped gongura leaves (sorrel leaves)

1/2 cup green mango, peeled and cubed *
2 spicy green chilies, sliced lengthwise and/or chili powder as needed

Salt as needed 
Lemon sized tamarind ball
For tempering/popu: 
1 tsp oil
1/2 tsp. mustard seeds
1/2 tsp. cumin seeds
1/4 tsp. fenugreek seeds
A few pinches of asafoetida
Few curry leaves 

* The quantity of mango used depends upon the sourness of the gongura. And if the sourness lend by gongura and green mango are not enough for the dal, then add tamarind as well. Both the gongura and the green mango available to me locally are not sour and so, I end up adding tamarind as well.

Method:
* Wash lentils in two exchanges of water and drain. Pressure cook together the lentils, chopped gongura, turmeric, green chillies if using and 2 cups of water. Cook green mango cubes separately in a sauce pan on stove top or in a microwave adding little water. (I cook mango separately to avoid it turning mushy in the cooker. Besides, the sourness of mangoes interferes with the cooking of lentils.)
* Soak tamarind in water or nuke it in a microwave adding half a cup of water for about 2 - 3 minutes. Squeeze the tamarind using your fingers or passing through a sieve. Discard the seeds and fibre. Use the thick puree extracted as required and save the rest for later use. 
* Once the valve pressure is gone, remove the pressure cooker lid and mash the cooked lentils with the back of a ladle.
* Heat oil in a kadai / pan and add mustard and cumin seeds. When the mustard seeds start popping, add fenugreek seeds, asafoetida and curry leaves. Next add the cooked lentil mixture, mango cubes, salt, chili powder (if green chillies were not used before) and about 1/2 cup water. Stir the contents well with a ladle and check the sourness. Add the  tamarind extract if the pappu is not sour enough. Stir well once more and let it simmer for about five minutes for all the flavors to mingle.
* The tempering part can be done separately and added at the end as well.

* Serve hot with rice and a spoon of ghee as part of a Andhra style meal.

So far on A - Z Andhra Cuisine,
A for Alasanda Vada
B for Bellam Garelu
C for Chiyali
D for Dondakaaya Kaarapu Kaaya
E for Endu Kobbari Podi
F for Fine Biscuits

21 comments:

Sandhya Ramakrishnan said...

What a flavorful recipe. Gongura is just such a known green in Andhra cuisine.

vaishali sabnani said...

I have not seen this green but I understand it is flavorful and your recipe sounds delicious.

Amara Annapaneni said...

I'm not a big fan of any pappu but yours is just very inviting. Nice dish to go with rice, some ghee and vadiyalu:)

Gayathri Kumar said...

I have personally never used gongura in my cooking. This pappu with gongura sounds too good...

Srivalli said...

What a delightful dal Suma..I love everything that you have added into your dal..

Srivalli said...

Btw do you use skinned urad dal for garelu?..

Pavani N said...

That is a super Andhra recipe Suma. Gongura with mamidikaya, now who can say no to that combo :-) I'm waiting for summer to grow my gongura, the ones we get from the store are too expensive and not at all fresh. Luckily my cousin in DE has a jungle of gongura, if I raid it and freeze it I'm set for the rest of the year too ;-)

Suma Gandlur said...

Valli, usually the word gare is synonymous with vada. Skinned urad dal can be used too. However in our parts of Andhra Brahmin homes, a gare is made with husked urad dal adding just salt.

Usha Rao said...

Genasu gadda is new to me. I know it is called chilakadumpa in some parts. We call it kanda gadda. I love mango pappu but never tasted gongura mamidikaya pappu. Good choice for G.

Suma Gandlur said...

Usha, kanda and genasugadda are two different vegetables.

Harini-Jaya R said...

Yes Usha, Kanda is Suran in Hindi and Gensu gadda is sweet potato.
Suma, I have never combined gongura and mango but sounds like a tangy combo. I pair mango with most of the leafy veggies except gongura. Now I know what I will pair it with come this summer. Mouthwatering combo!

rajani said...

I like gongura prepared any way. Extremely flavorful

Sapana Behl said...

I haven't cooked with gongura eaves but seen so many recipes.Dal looks invitng.

Kalyani said...

I was hoping u wud post a gonghura pickle / thokku... But this sounds equally delicious..& am partial to andhra pappus 😊😊

Padma Rekha said...

Yea genusu gadda is a typical Telugu word for Sweet potato. Suma I mixed totakura and mamirikaya but gongur and mamidikaya let me try. That pappu with side dishes making me drool.

Priya Suresh said...

The addition of the gongura makes this pappu more droolworthy, just love it.

Smruti Shah said...

What a lovely recipe Suma! Loved it :)

Chef Mireille said...

info packed post and platter looks so good

Ruchi Indu said...

gongura pappu is my favourite from the Andhra cuisine. Good clicks

Padmajha PJ said...

I have tasted gongura pickle .We don't get the fresh ones here so I can only imagine the taste. But I am sure it would have been great with the mango in it!Lovely spread Suma...

Priya Srinivasan said...

I have tasted gongura dal, but with mango it must even more yummy n tangggy!! Will try next time I get gongura! !