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Tuesday, February 4, 2020

A - Z Karnataka Cuisine ~ E for Ellu Pajji

So far in my A - Z Karnataka Series
A - Akki Halbai
B - Biscuit Roti
C - Congress Kadalekayi
D - Davanagere Benne Dose

The northern and southern regions of Karnataka is divided topographically as bayaluseeme region, which is largely plain area with few hillocks. Coast lies along the western region and situated between coastal and bayaluseeme regions is Malenadu or colloquially Malnadu. Kodagu or Coorg, located on the slopes of the Western Ghats / Sahyadri mountain range is one of the districts of Malenadu. It is a gorgeous hill station and Cauvery, an important river of south India originates from this region. The native and probably the oldest inhabitants of the area are known as Kodavas. The picturesque region with lush green forests and hills had little to no access to the outside world in the past and the people had to rely on farming and hunting for their food. The reason why Kodavas are non vegetarians and pandi curry (Curry prepared using the hunted wild hogs) appears to be the most popular dish is for the same reason. 

The local rice which is said to smell like ghee during the harvest season was a coveted crop here. Rice features as the main staple and one would be surprised to note the variety of rice dishes Kodavas have come up with. Not the biryani, pulao or the bhath kind. The dishes that end with the word 'puttu' are plenty and are all rice based. Here are kadumbuttu, and paputtu for instance. Among  the lot, the most common and popular rice dish for outsiders has to be akki rotti or otti as it is called locally. I am not elaborating on it as my focus today is not on it but on an accompaniment to go with it. It is called ellu pajji which is going to be my 'E' dish in the series. Ellu means sesame seeds in Kannada and this is a Kodava version of sesame chutney. Ellu pajji and pumpkin curry seem to be the most popular vegetarian options to go with akki rotti, the rice based flat breads from the region.

This recipe has been on my to do list for years and I could make it over weekend to go with akki rottis. Toasted sesame seeds. shallots roasted whole and coconut together makes it an enjoyable chutney to go with rottis. I halved the recipe and tried to grind the small quantity of chutney in my stone mortar. I didn't want to use my blender as the quantity wasn't enough to grind without adding water. Also I had coconut pieces to work with which I couldn't grind smoothly. The chutney can be ground in a blender or food processor adding as much as little water possible.

Ingredients for chutney:
1/2 cup white sesame seeds
1/2 cup shredded coconut
2 shallots / sambhar onions 
3 green chilies or to taste
1 tbsp. thick tamarind extract / or to taste
1 tbsp. jaggery or to taste
Salt to taste
Ingredients for tempering:
1 tsp. oil
1/2 tsp. mustard seeds
1 dried red chili, broken to pieces
6 curry leaves

Directions:
* Wash and dry sesame seeds if preferred. (I didn't do it.) Dry toast the sesame seeds on medium flame, stirring continuously, until they splutter and change a shade darker. 
* Roast onions with their skins on until they are blackened outside and peel. (This was done traditionally in embers. It can be mimicked over open flame, under the broiler or in a hot pan, the author mentions. I chopped a red onion and toasted it until golden brown instead.) Let it cool.
* Grind the sesame seeds finely before adding other ingredients if using a food processor or blender. Then add onion, green chillies, tamarind, jaggery and salt, Blend them together coarsely adding water if needed. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed. Grind it to a smooth consistency. (Add water if needed to facilitate grinding but only as little as possible.)
* Tempering is optional. Heat oil in a small pan and add mustard seeds and red chili. When mustard starts to splutter, add curry leaves and turn off the stove, Add it to chutney and mix. 
* Serve with rottis or rice. Any leftover chutney can be refrigerated.


4 comments:

Srivalli said...

This is such an interesting recipe Suma. Though we use Sesame a lot in our cooking, have not really tried making a chutney with it. This surely sounds fantastic.

Amara’s cooking said...

That's one interesting chutney. Love the combination of flavours. Will sure give it a try.

Harini R said...

Wow! I love the chutneys made in the mortar and pestle. They have that earthy and rustic feel to it. I haven't tried sesame, onion and coconut in any chutney. Bookmarked.

Narmadha said...

we make sesame chutney by grinding. I love this version of using mortar and pestle and it actually lends unique taste too.