Kumror Chokka ~ Bengali Potato - Pumpkin Curry

Kumror chokka is a simple vegetarian side dish prepared braising chunks of sweet pumpkin and potatoes, with some black chickpeas thrown in. I had included this in my Bengali lunch thaali that I had posted a few months back. This 'no onion or garlic' dish is popular in Bengali households and used to be a fixture on wedding menus until a few decades ago. Panch phoran, the blend of mustard seeds, cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds, nigella seeds and fennel seeds is used in tempering. The addition of bhaja masala, a local spice blend and ghee make the simply curry a flavorful one. This dish pairs well with luchi / rotis. 

Recipe source: Here

Ingredients:

A handful of black chickpeas, soaked overnight
1 big potato, peeled and cubed
1.5 to 2 cups cubed pumpkin
2 tsp. mustard oil or oil of your choice
1 tsp. panch phoran / Bengali five spices
1 red chili

1 bay leaf
A pinch of asafoetida
1 tsp. grated ginger / 1/2 tsp. ginger paste

Salt to taste

A pinch of turmeric powder

1/4 tsp. chili powder or to taste

1/4 - 1/2 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. bhaja masala

2 tsp. ghee

Directions:

* Soak black chickpeas / kala chana overnight and drain the water in the morning. Pressure cook adding water for 3 whistles and keep aside.

* Heat oil in a pan / kadai and temper with five spices, red chili, green chili and bay leaf.
* Next add asafoetida and ginger. Stir for few seconds and add potatoes. Cook them on low flame until they are more than half way done. Next add pumpkin, salt, turmeric, chili powder and the cooked black chickpeas to the pan. There is no need to add any water to the pan. 

* Cover and continue cooking until both the vegetables are done, still holding the shape. Stir in sugar.
* Finally stir in bhaja masala and ghee and turn off the stove.

* Serve it warm with luchi / roti or parathas.

This post is an entry for Blogging Marathon with the theme 'Dry Side Dishes'. Check the link to find out what other marathoners are cooking.

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Bengali Cholar Dal / Cholar Dal Narkel Diye

Today's recipe of cholar dal comes from the Bengal region and was included in my Bengali thaali that I posted in September. Cholar dal is a traditional dal prepared in Bengalis homes using chana dal / split chickpeas, ghee toasted coconut and spices. It is not every day kind f dal but usually meant for festive meals like Durga puja bhog and special occasions. This savory and subtly sweet dal does not contain any vegetables and the preparation is quite simple and straight forward. 

It doesn't contain the panch phoran, the traditional five spice mix that is frequently used in Bengali cooking but uses other whole spices.  This flavor filled dal is unique with an inviting addition of toasted coconut slices and raisins along with sugar. I found it interesting and the dal very enjoyable with a slight crunch of those crispy coconut pieces and raisins in each bite. It can be served with luchi, a Bengali puffed bread, rice, khichdi or pulao. 

Ingredients:

1/2 cup split chickpeas / chana dal

1 - 2 tbsp. ghee

2 tbsp. fresh coconut pieces

1 tbsp. raisins

1 tsp. cumin seeds

1 bay leaf

1 inch cinnamon stick

2 or 3 cardamom

1 tsp. ginger paste / grated ginger

2 dried red chili

1 pinch of asafoetida

1/8 tsp. ground turmeric

Salt to taste

1/2 tsp. cumin powder

1/4 tsp. garam masala powder

1/2 tsp. sugar

(I added 1/4 tsp. chili powder as well which is optional.)

Directions:

* Rinse and soak chana dal for a couple of hours. Drain the water used to soak the dal. Pressure cook chana dal adding about 1.5 cups water, for 3 or 4 whistles. The dal should be cooked such that it doesn't turn mushy but still hold some shape. (I had about a cup of cooked dal along with water.) 

* Heat ghee in a pan. Fry coconut pieces and raisins separately and keep aside.

* To the same ghee, add cumin seeds, bay leaf, red chili, cinnamon, and cardamom. Saute for few seconds and add asafoetida and ginger paste. Cook on low flame for about a minute.

 

* Next add the cooked chana dal along with the water, turmeric, salt, chili powder, and sugar. (The toasted coconut and raisins are also added at this point but I decided to add them at the end.) Cook the mixture until it thickens.

* Add cumin powder and garam masala at the final stages and cook for a minute and turn off the stove

* Garnish with the fried coconut pieces and raisins and serve it warm with rice / khichdi or luchi.

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Bengali Niramish Thaali ~ Uchche Bhaja / Bengali Bitter Gourd Fry

A 'Niramish' thaali is a Bengali veg thaali that is prepared adding no onion or garlic and with minimal usage of spices. In short, it is what is called a satvik thaali in other parts of India. I may have gone overboard and added an extra dish or two in my everyday thaalis that I have been posting for the past three days. However  Bengali cuisine is the only one that has a traditionally developed multi course tradition, among the regional cuisines of India that is similar in structure to French cuisine. A traditional, every day meal platter in Bengal would look somewhat  like this though it may not be a true replica. Of course there would be fish / meat in a Bengali household if it is not a niramish thaali. 

A niche of vegetarian cooking seems to have evolved and thrived in spite of no one being a vegetarian in Bengal because of an unusual reason. The full glory of the vegetarian cooking and the credit seems to go to the high caste widows of the bygone era who had to live under various restrictions. Restrictions that were imposed on their lives in the guise of puritanical beliefs which did not apply for widowers. 

The widows were given full meal once a day and were forbidden from eating or cooking or for that matter even smelling fish, meat, garlic, or onion. Even the masoor dal which is a 'must have' dal for Bengalis, and expensive spices were strictly forbidden. Dairy products, nuts and dry fruits were scarce as well. Basically they had a 'pre and post' widowhood diets. They were relegated to a separate kitchen, had to rely on the meager supplies, taking the responsibility for the vegetarian part of the meal for the family. They had to relearn to come up with new set of meals even using the odds and ends and cheap spices as they no longer had access to their own kitchen or supplies. The silver lining of this plain misogyny has been that the taboos, the social and economic restrictions and the harsh dietary rules seem to have created a section of vegetarian cuisine with a wide range, and subtlety where nothing is wasted. 

1. Tomato chutney 2. Begun Basanthi 3. Kumror Chakka 4. Cholor Dal

I went through a lot of Bengali food posts and videos to get the gist below. I would have acquired some degree in the time I spent on researching regional cuisines of India for various thaalis. 😇 Coming to my thaali, I repeat, it is a platter that represents a traditional style every day meal that allows one to savor the six flavors / rasas. People nowadays however skip some courses in the daily grind. 

Daily meals are nutritionally balanced and makes use of vegetables extensively. The meal revolves around rice and the courses progress from lighter to richer and heavier. There would be fried breads served for special occasions. I have given a general glimpse of how the courses are served below. There is always a lemon wedge and green chili to go with the meal, a common feature in eastern parts of India. Pickles may be served as an accompaniment to dal / lentil dish and a papad with chutney.

My menu had rice with lemon, green chili and the following courses.
Ucche bhaja -  Fried bitter gourd slices
Cholor dal - Split chickpea dal
Jhurjhura aloo - Fried potato juliennes
Kumror chakka - Pumpkin and potato curry
Begun basanthi - Eggplant in yogurt and mustard gravy
Tamatar Chaatni - Tomato chutney
Rajbhog for dessert

1. A bitter (side) dish 
Every day lunch starts on a bitter note, literally. Bengalis starting course is usually a bitter gourd or tender neem leaves preparation. This is true especially during summers. It is to cleanse one's internal system and palate before you dig into rich and complex food. Portions are usually tiny unless if it is the medley of vegetables called shukto. I served ucche bhaja aka bitter gourd fry which seemed more practical and easier. 

2. Dal 
There would be a savory dal which may again change seasonally and occasion wise. Masoor dal and moong dal are the commonly used dals in Bengal while surprisingly toor dal / pigeon peas which is common in south India is rarely used. Urad dal / skinned black gram is cooked when pairing with potato based side dishes. Cholar dal is reserved for special occasions and that is what I cooked which was one of the highlights of the platter if you ask me.

3. Bhaja / Bora - Fried vegetables / Vegetable fritters
The above dal would be paired with a bhaja or a bora which surely is a tempting combo. This section is irresistible even without the dal if you ask me. 😀 Vegetables are fried either plain (bhaja) or with a batter coating (bora). Even fish are fried this way.

Some choices for fried vegetables are potatoes, eggplants, parval, bitter gourds. And for the vegetable fritters / vegetable bhajias which are called bora, choices may be a beguni bora (eggplant fritter),  fulkopir bora (cauliflower fritter), posto r bora (poppy seeds fritters), narkeler bora (coconut fritters), cilantro fritters and so on. I had jhurjhura aloo, crisply fried potato for this course.

Ucche bhaja (Bitter gourd Fry) and Jhurjhura aloo (Deep fried potato juliennes)

4. A vegetarian side dish 

It can be a dry one or one with gravy prepared using seasonal vegetables. Torkari, dalna, ghontos, labra fall under this category. Sometimes the vegetable preparations may have pieces of fish as well. I made kumror chakka - a potato, pumpkin and black chickpeas curry that is mildly spiced.

5. Rich gravy curry

This is the main course where usually Bengalis serve a non vegetarian curry prepared with fish / other sea food / meat at this point. It would be a gravy dish for vegetarians like dhokar dalna (gravy with lentil cakes), chanar dalna (cottage cheese and potatoes) which is I am assuming should be a protein alternative to meat counterpart. 

I found a yogurt - mustard based curry called begun basanthi suitable for this course. The mustard overpowers the taste department and we thought it is an acquired taste. 

6. Chaatni / Chutney

Chaatni / tak / tok, is typically a sweet and tangy chutney that is served almost at the end of the meal and is almost always made fresh. Bengalis don't eat chutneys at the beginning of the meal or even as a dip or relish.They eat it just after they finish eating the fish / meat course and right before the dessert, just to ease from one course to another. Tomato chutney in winter and green mango one in summer are popular. Some of the other chutneys are pineapple chutney and raw papaya chutney called plastic chutney, and ones made with fish. I made the one with tomato, raisins and dried mango. 

7. Doi / Misthti - Yogurt / Dessert
The meal ends usually with a serving of yogurt or sometimes a sweet dish. We had rajbhog.

I am going to post the recipes for the dishes presented in this platter in the near feature. Tomato chutney recipe has been already posted here. The below recipe is for uchche bhaja aka bitter gourd fry. Uchche are a local variety of bitter gourds in Bengal which are smaller in size than regular bitter gourds. This is a simple fry where bitter gourd slices are fried until crisp in mustard oil. Or one can use oil of their choice to fry.

Directions for pan frying:
1. Rinse and dry the bitter gourds. Chop off the ends and cut them into thin slices. Soak them in water for about 10 to 15 minutes and drain the water. Or smear them with salt and turmeric and let them sit for about 15 minutes.

2. Heat mustard oil in a thick bottomed pan until smoking point. You may use around 3 - 4 tbsp. oil for about a cup of vegetable slices.

3. Fry them on medium heat until they turn golden brown, flipping them in between. Sprinkle a pinch of turmeric powder, salt and chili powder as needed. Stir to combine, cook for about 30 seconds and turn off the stove.

4.  Serve warm with rice.

I air fried the bitter gourds instead of frying. I used slices from 4 bitter gourds,and followed step 1 from above. I lightly patted them dry and brushed with a tsp. of oil and sprinkled salt over them. I air fried them at 370 deg F until almost done. Finally lightly brushed again with oil, sprinkled a pinch turmeric and chili powder over them and shook them to uniformly coat the chili. I put them back and air fried for a minute or so. Guilt free, crisp bitter gourd fry was ready to go.

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A - Z Indian Biryani / Pulao / Khichdi Series ~ B for Bengali Basanti Polao / Mishti Polao

Many basic versions of pulao exist in Indian regional cuisine that pair well with a spicy curry or gravy. Most of them sound similar and vary very minutely and today's basanti polao is one such dish. Yes, it's not a typo. It's called polao instead of pulao. It is a specialty from the Bengal region and is usually reserved there for auspicious occasions like Durga pooja, new year celebration and so on. The word 'basanti' has nothing to do with basant, the spring season but stands for the polao's bright yellow color. The rice is also called holud polao for the same reason. This rice delicacy is  called misthi polao as well since it is on the sweeter side unlike the regular pulao dishes. 

It is usually served with a spicier side dish to balance out the sweetness from the polao. The use of saffron lends a yellow tinge to the dish and food color is added as well for the yellow color of the pulao but not turmeric, according to some Bengali food bloggers. (I am not a fan of food colors to be honest and turmeric is of course an healthier choice. The bloggers were mentioning that one should not feel the whiff of turmeric from the dish.) 


It is distinctly yellow in color, subtly rose flavored and unmistakably sweeter. Not enough sweeter that it can be served as a dessert on it's own but sweet enough to put it apart from the savory versions. If one is counting calories then feel free to decrease the quantity or totally skip the sugar even if purists may scoff at the suggestion since it may no longer be called a misthi polao.

Bengalis use a locally cultivated rice called Gobindobhog rice which is a short grain, sticky and aromatic rice. The rice supposedly imparts an inviting aroma and flavor to this rice delicacy. I used aged Basmati rice instead. The addition of rose water lifts the flavor of the dish. The dish is subtly spicy and serves as a base for spicy curries. The most popular Bengali accompaniment to this polao seems to be a mutton curry called kosha mangsho. Vegetarian side dishes like aloor dum and aloo phulkopir dalna would go well with this polao. I preferred a gravy curry instead.

Ingredients:
1 cup rice *
2 tbsp. ghee
2 tbsp. cashew nuts
2 tbsp. raisins
2 - 3 cardamom
2 - 3 cloves 
1 inch cinnamon
1 bay leaf
1 and 1/2 cups water
3 tbsp. sugar
Salt to taste
1/2 tsp. garam masala
A pinch of saffron strands soaked in a tbsp. milk 
A few drops yellow food color
Few drops of rose water
* Use Gobindobhog rice if available and if not, Basmati rice would be a great substitute. 

Directions:
* Rinse and soak rice for about 30 minutes. Drain and keep aside.
* Heat ghee directly in a small pressure cooker and add cashews and raisins. Toast until cashews are golden and raisins turn plump. Remove them with a slotted spoon onto a plate and keep them aside.
* To the same ghee, add cardamom, clove, cinnamon and bay leaf. Toast them for 30 seconds and then add drained rice. Saute them for few seconds.
* Add water and the remaining ingredients. Stir them once and pressure cook for 3 whistles. Wait until the valve pressure is gone. Add the toasted cashews and raisins to the polao, fluff and serve with a spicy side dish.

So far in my Biryani / Pulao / Khichdi series,
A for Ambur Biryani

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Rice Dishes ~ B For Bhuna Khichuri

When I decided to post recipes this month based on one ingredient, I thought of doing it as a A - Z series as well, to make it more complicated fun. And so today, I am on alphabet 'B' as part of the series. 

My first choice would have been Bisi Bele Bhath if I hadn't posted it already. It is a spicy medley of rice, lentils and vegetables from the south Indian state of Karnataka. 
There are of course 'Birinj' and 'Biryani' which can be converted to vegetarian versions, even though true connoisseurs may look down at them. 'Birinj' came to India from Persia and Mesopotamian regions through invaders and trade routes and transformed to Biryani. And there are other choices for Biryani lovers like the Bhatkal Biryani and Beri Biryani from Karnataka and Bombay Biryani.

I had also had a choice of picking 'Bellam Pongali' or 'Bellam Paramannam', which are south Indian style eggfree sweet rice puddings using jaggery. And there was 'bakala bhath' which happens to be seasoned yogurt rice.
I also came across a couple of Bengali version khichdis online that started with the letter 'B'. The first one being Bhoger khichuri aka Bhaja moog dal er khichuri which uses rice, roasted moong dal and vegetables. And there was this simple bhuna khichuri sans vegetables that was a breeze to prepare. 

Khicuri / Khichdi seemingly is an ultimate comfort food for many Indians and Bengalis too seem to be no exception.The original recipe author eloquently pens down how it is the comfort food of many on a rainy day. I loved the fact that it was a simple and filling meal to put together in a short time. I prepared the khichdi on the dry side as the original recipe mentioned, where each grain stands apart. However the consistency can be changed according to one's preference and even vegetables of your choice can be added to make it wholesome. This can be served with a spicy side dish or a pickle.

Ingredients: (Servings 4 to 5)
1 cup Basmati rice
1/2 cup moong dal (Yellow Colored)
2 to 3 tbsp. ghee
1 onion, peeled and sliced lengthwise
1/2 tsp. ginger - garlic paste (I omitted garlic.)
1 each - sliced green chillie, clove, 1" cinnamon bark, bay leaf
1/2 tsp. turmeric powder
1/2 tsp. cumin powder
Salt to taste
2.5 cups water

Method:
* Roast moong dal on low flame until you start to notice the nutty aroma and the dal has turned light golden brown. 
* Wash rice and dal and drain. Let it sit aside.
* Heat ghee in a pan or a small pressure cooker directly. Add onion and fry until golden brown. Next, add ginger - garlic paste, green chillie, clove, cinnamon and bay leaf. Saute for a minute.
* Then add turmeric and cumin powder and saute for few seconds. 
* Add rice, dal, salt and water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cook covered until rice is done.
* If using a pressure cooker, cover the lid and cook for 3 to 4 whistles. I used the pressure cooker to cook this khichuri.

Disclaimer:
I am not doing a detailed study on rice dishes with each alphabet. I am just mentioning those that I am familiar with and may miss even the popular ones. 

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Tuesday 'Treats' ~ Bhapa Doi (Baked Version)

'Bhapa Doi' is a fuss-free sweet dish from Bengali cuisine that can be whipped up in short time. It literally means 'steamed yogurt' and prepared using hung yogurt. The hung yogurt of course can be substituted with Greek yogurt to cut down the preparation time. Traditionally bhapa doi is steamed in a closed container inside a pressure cooker filled with water at the base but here I followed the baking method. The container with the mixture of yogurt and milks is placed in a water tray while baking, to mimic the traditional method of steaming. The final steamed mixture would be melt in mouth kind with a thick and creamy consistency. If you are fan of yogurt based desserts like shrikhand, then you are definitely going to like it.

Ingredients: (4 servings)
1 cup Greek yogurt / hung yogurt
1 cup evaporated milk / full fat milk
400 gm sweetened condensed milk (use less if you prefer the final dish to be less sweeter.)
Nuts and raisins to garnish 
Saffron soaked in 1 tbsp. warm milk
* I halved the recipe to make 2 servings. I used 5.3 oz / 150 grams / 1/2 cup Greek yogurt, 1/2 cup evaporated milk and little less than 200 grams sweetened condensed milk (less than 1/2 of the standard condensed milk can.)

Method:
*  Combine yogurt, milk and condensed milk in a bowl and whisk well until combined. Add sliced nuts and raisins if using. (I sprinkled some saffron on the top without soaking in milk.)

* Preheat the oven at 350 deg F / 175 deg C.
* Pour the mixture into a baking dish or in ramekins if serving individually. Note that the mixture doesn't rise at all during baking and so can use any baking dish accordingly.

* Pour boiling water in a baking tray and place the ramekins in the tray. The ramekins should be immersed in the water halfway up. This is to mimic the traditional steaming method to prepare the bhapa doi.
* Place the tray in the oven and bake for 30 - 35 minutes or until the mixture is set. Remove before the top starts changing color. (Mine were done in 35 minutes.)

* Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Cover and put in the refrigerator for a couple of hours or overnight. Serve chilled.

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Baigun Bhaja

Baigun bhaja is a fried, yummy dish, which serves as an accompaniment to rice - dal meal in Bengali households. "Bhaja" literally means deep fried and the common vegetables used to prepare bhajas are eggplants, potatoes, pumpkins or parval. There are several spice laden versions online with besan / poppy seeds / rice flour / sooji coatings. However after going through recipes online by Bengali cooks, I realized that this is supposed to be a simple delicacy. The eggplants are marinated just in a simple, salt-turmeric mixture and are deep fried.
I eat eggplants but not a great fan of them. This one however was particularly hard to resist. Earlier I had tried a chili powder smeared version too and it was a mess. The spice mixture seeps into the oil and particularly the chili powder keeps scorching in the oil while frying. This version was simple and sensible. If one prefers to eat it spicy, they can sprinkle some chili powder after the frying is done. 

Method: 
* Wash the eggplants and wipe them dry. Slice them into thick rounds or vertically. Smear them with a small quantity of turmeric and salt and keep them aside for about 10 minutes.

* Heat oil in a pan for deep frying. Traditionally, mustard oil is used but I used canola oil here. Gently slide the slices into the hot oil and fry until golden brown. Drain on absorbent towels and serve them warm.

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